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Unfortunately for some of us it is that dreaded time of the year… Winter (YUCK!!) So let’s get into some steps you should take if you too have to face this dreaded time of the year. All steps are dependent upon your climate and how long you are going to be storing your bike. You may be able to sneak out every few weeks during the winter or maybe you are in Canada and once the snow flies that’s it until spring. Do your winter temps fluctuate a lot or once the bottom drops out do they stay there. These are all things to consider when prepping your trusty steed for the winter months.
The first step that you SHOULD do is a good wash and wax. Now why should you do this? Well it gets and road grime or chemicals off the bike’s surfaces, such as paint and chrome. Bugs can be very harsh on theses surfaces and cause paint to discolor or break down and metal surface to start oxidizing. ( I will freely admit as a Dirtiest Bike winner on several occasions I don’t do this regularly… I MIGHT (Definitely do) have bugs from Alaska). The second advantage to a thorough wash and cleaning is that it will remove old stains or fluid leaks so you can be sure if in the spring you see a spot, it is from this year and not just spilled oil from the last oil change. This is also an EXCELLENT time to check you saddlebags for anything that could attract mice or rodents (i.e. that granola bar that fell out of your goodie bag from the last rally). Nothing worse than finding a hole chewed through your saddlebag to ruin that first ride euphoria. I use a product called Grandpa Gus’s Mouse Repellent; it comes in a spray bottle or in convenient little pouches that you can toss in the saddlebags. It’s all natural, and made with peppermint and cinnamon oils so it’s not an unpleasant smell. I put the pouches in my saddlebags and use the spray around my fairing to keep my wires safe. Does it work? I don’t know but I store my bike in a canvas tent over the winter and haven’t had an issue yet….so you decide.
The next step should be to drain and replace the oil. This prevents dirt and sediments in the oil from settling and solidifying in the oil pan over winter. Also, oil’s chemistry can change after it’s been heated and worn down, and it can become more acidic, which could cause corrosion on your engine parts. The secondary benefit of this is that you have fresh oil when the riding season starts back up and you don’t have to scramble with everyone else trying to get it done when the nice weather rolls back around. At this time you should also check your air cleaner and clean it up if it’s reusable, or replace if it’s not, again this will start your riding season fresh and ready to go when the time comes. You should also inspect your tires, brake pads, and your belt or chain. If you can, put a piece of carpet or plywood under your bike to keep the tires off the concrete. Tires should also be at the proper inflation rating… not over and not under inflated. Your air pressure will fluctuate with the outside air temperature. Under inflated tires can develop flat spots, overinflated tires can damage the tire when they expand even farther as the air warms or worse you forget to check the pressure before that first ride and the tire gets damaged or blows out. By doing these things now you can make note if anything needs to be replaced before spring and have plenty of time to order parts and schedule the service appointment or set aside time to do it yourself.
Now to the down and dirty parts! Make sure your tank is full, and if you can get non ethanol gas in your area… even better. When the tank is not full there is more air in the tank, which warms and cools with the air temperature and that means condensation. I like to run to the station a couple miles from the house add the stabilizer, then top the tank, and ride back home. This ensures that the stabilizer has run completely through the fuel system. The fuel stabilizer keeps the gas from breaking down and it also helps treat gaskets and seals. If you bike is carbureted you should shut the gas off and if you can drain the float bowls. This keeps the carbs from getting gummed up.
The battery is the next thing to address. This steps largely depends on how accessible you battery is. The new Heritage Classic’s battery is like performing brain surgery to get to. If your battery is easily accessed I would recommend removing it and keeping it inside in a warm temperature controlled area. At the very least it should be hooked up to a battery tender if you don’t remove it. Now I tend to not keep the tender on constantly, if I’m outside working Ill hook it up while I’m going in and out of the garage and when I’m done for the day turn it off. This keeps the battery from being overcharged by the constant current. Some people also choose to cover or block off their mufflers with either a clean rag or some steel wool to prevent mice and rodents from making a nest inside them during storage. There isn’t much damage that they can do besides creating a stinky mess when you go for that first ride and the pipes get hot and cook a winters worth of mouse house. That’s one way to make an impression at the break out parties! LOL!
Lastly cover the bike, whether it’s inside or out. If its inside drape a clean soft sheet over the bike but make sure that it doesn’t touch the floor, just enough to cover the pipes. The floor heats and cools and will have some amount of condensation from the natural temperature fluctuations of the ground underneath. If the cover touches the floor it can wick that condensation up into the sheet, which keeps the bike slightly damp. Also, by covering only to the pipes if you store your bike in an area that gets opened to the outside… i.e.. a garage door to park the car; even though the garage is “heated” there is an influx of cold air that comes in when the door is opened, and that cold air settles close to the floor. This can cause a condensation line, another reason to put a piece of carpet or plywood under the bike to help even out that temperature gradient under the bike. Its much like putting a sheet over your flowers to protect against frost, that thin layer stops it from getting to the surface of your bike. If the bike has to be stored outside cover it as best you can with first a motorcycle cover and then a tarp, making sure to cover over the tires and to secure the tarp so that there are no flapping parts to rub on the paint or chrome.
So that is that! C’mon spring ! We’re on the countdown!
