Let’s Talk About The O in T-CLOCS! O= Oils and Fluids

The next installment of our T-CLOCS check covers the oils and fluids needed to keep you rolling safely. This includes the engine oil, transmission fluid, hydraulic fluids for the brakes and clutch, Coolant if your motorcycle is liquid cooled, and gasoline (AKA go go juice).

First up is the engine oil. You should get in the habit of checking your engine oil at the very least once a week during riding season, but preferably before each ride. Refer to your own-er’s manual for the proper procedure, some bikes you check the oil on the side stand and some you have to check in the full upright position, which can be challenging if you can reach the dipstick or cant balance the bike by yourself. Always remember to do this as safely as possible, get someone to help if necessary. Some bikes have a marking on the dipstick for both hot and cold levels. The advantages to checking it cold are that the engine is COLD no risk of getting burnt on a hot pipe, and all the oil is in the pan. If you check it after riding let the bike sit for about an hour or so. This lets all the oil drain back out of the engine and into the pan. The oil will have a thinner consistency because its hot and it might be a bit more difficult to get a read on the dipstick. Also be aware that the engine, oil, and exhaust will still be warm from the ride. Your engine oil should be amber or honey colored, the darker the color the dirtier the oil. If its black it’s time to start thinking about getting an oil change. Look at the rag or paper towel when you wipe the dipstick, just check to make sure that there is no obvious dirt, debris or metallic particles. It is a good habit to get into to glance at the ground under you bike whenever you park it. This is to check for any debris that may need to be removed before you leave and to also note if there is any fluids on the ground. Do the same when you return, again to check for debris around the tires that may have appeared while you were off the bike, but to also check for fresh fluids that may have leaked. Some bikes especially the older ones have a tendency to “mark their territory” with small amounts of oil, this is nothing to be concerned about if it is normal, BUT if it’s something new then it needs to be investigated. Oil leaks will develop in several areas such around the cylinder heads this usually creates a dirty area towards the top of the engine. You can also develop leaks around the oil cooler hoses if you have one, or around the oil pan gasket, and also around the drain plug if it wasn’t installed properly or if the drain plug o-ring is bad, these will show up as oil drops on the ground under the front or middle of the bike. Another common area to check is at the base of the cylinders on top of the transmission, generally leaks here are small and will result in small pool of oil that gets cooked into a sticky patch that catches dirt and debris on top of the transmission box. And lastly leaks can develop around the cam chest if the gasket starts to fail or is not installed properly, this will result in oil under the right side of the bike usually in the foot peg area.

Next is the transmission fluid, some bikes do not have transmission fluid if they have a wet gear box, that just means that the transmission gear box and engine share oil for lubrication. Again refer to your owner’s manual for this one. Generally speaking if you aren’t noticing any wonky, loud or difficult shifting issues this is probably okay. The transmission is checked by removing the transmission dip stick in the same manner as you would check the oil. The transmission dip stick will have 2 marks A (add) and F (full) the level should be between these two marks.

Hydraulic fluid is used for the clutch and also for the brakes and it is the same oil. This can be check on the master cylinder on the right hand lever assembly. There should be a clear sight glass to visually inspect the level. Make sure this sight glass is not cracked.

Some bikes are liquid cooled and therefore have a radiator and coolant that needs to be checked. Coolant levels should NEVER be checked while the engine is hot. Coolant leaks will usually show up at the front of the bike around the radiator or radiator hoses or underneath by the drain plug. Motorcycle coolant is propylene glycol and it is similar but not the same as car coolant which is ethylene glycol. You can dilute pure coolant with water but it is important to only use distilled water to do so, otherwise you will be introducing contaminants into the radiator which will eventually lead to failure.

Lastly is fuel. This may seem silly to say check your fuel, but if you have developed a leak since you last rode, you may have very little gas left in the tank. Check your fuel gauge (if you have one) or give the bike a little side to side shake and listen for fuel sloshing around. Fuel leaks can develop around carbs or the petcock if you have them, and also along fuel lines into the engine and tank. Remember to check that crossover line as well, fuel tends to sit in that more and can cause the line to fail.